Friday, November 19, 2010

Would you touch a lugie covered cash machine for 3.5€?

This morning I was faced with just such a dilemma.

You might wonder why I would stoop to such a level and even consider the question. It's kind of a long answer, but since I have you here and I have all the time in the world, why don't I explain it?

Let's start with the fact that banking in Spain is an interesting enterprise. It's not the easiest thing in the world to set up an account. In Spain everyone and their mother want something called your DNI. This is basically you national ID number, what in the US would be your Social Security Number. To open an account at most banks, the big banks, you need either a resident number or a DNI.

We have neither since we are here (at least until the week after next) on tourist visas.

However, some banks, the smaller ones, the ones who charge fees, do not have such issues. As a foreign national you may open an account here with a passport, cash and a recommendation from someone else who banks with them. In this case we have this, via our landlord (who is lovely!). And so we came to bank with Banco Sabadell Atlantico. This is a small bank whose symbol we found to be hysterically funny when we arrived at the bank as you might imagine we would:
Upon opening our account we were told that we could use any ServiRed machines, but that only the BS (LOLOLOL) machines would be free of charge and only then if we took out over 60€. No problem we thought.

No problem that is until we came to learn that there was but one machine in our area. And that one machine was right in the Puerta del Sol. In other words, it was in the heart of Touristlandia. But no matter. I could walk right past it on my way from dropping the Kid off at school. As long as we only took cash out every other week or so, we were fine.

Since moving to Spain, certain things have been a bit surprising to me. For one thing, roughly half the public bathrooms lack both toilet paper and soap. This includes the bathroom in the Kid's school. His current assignment in Art class is to create a sign to put up in school that warns students of a hidden danger. He chose to make one that warned potential potty goers that the bathroom lacked soap and paper. No one thought this was funny. They looked at him like he was nuts. Why, they wondered, would anyone care about that? Bathrooms often lack these things.

The Spanish are impeccably dressed, coiffed and cologned. Their clothing is always neat, pressed and matching. They (unlike Americans) would never be caught dead going to the grocery in sweatpants. As a whole, people here are beautiful, and I always feel that it is important to look nice whenever I leave our apartment.

However, this does not extend to hygiene necessarily. And I don't meant o make blanket statements, because it's no one's fault if they can't wash their hands in the restaurant bathroom when there is no soap provided them. But it's not a hand washing kind of place. Hand sanitizer is expensive (or impossible to find in some places). And people do not cough or sneeze into their arms, but in their hands, which they then use to press the buttons on the elevator, open the metro door with, or place on the escalator.

In addition, like Latin America, Spain seems to be a place where trash is discarded rather than kept upon the person. Cigarette butts are thrown willy nilly on the streets as are tissues, cans, and other detritus. In Mexico once, a woman throwing her trash out the window explained her disgust of Americans to Ricardo thusly: "Why would you want to carry trash with you? It's so dirty!" Which seems to be true here too. And since there is a huge army of people out cleaning the streets at all times, the city is extremely neat despite the way that littering takes place, with people sweeping, mopping, and even bleaching and hosing down the streets daily.

Which brings me to my lugie this morning. There is but one BS machine in my life. And it is in the middle of tourist land. Whether the lugie was placed by a Spaniard with a cold and bad aim, a stupid American without regard for others, an angry Ecuadorian wanting revenge on the Spanish who employ him, a German who missed the hanky, or someone else, it ended up on my BS machine. And I had to make a choice.

Would I spend 3.50€ to use the La Caixa machine next door? Or would I touch the machine with the lugie on it?

We've been in Spain nearly 90 days to be exact. And in this time, I have watched people exit bathrooms where I know they have been going number 2 and not washed their hands. I have seen people kiss hello after they have sneezed into their hands. I have been to dinner with people who have no soap in their own bathrooms (and these are professionals).

3.50 € is milk for a week or more. I used the lugie machine.

And then I came home. And I washed my hands.

Wednesday, October 27, 2010

I've been craving enchiladas

And making them is no easy feat here in Madrid.

For one thing, the Spanish do not eat spicy food. They think they do. They have chistorras and patatas bravas and chorizo but as yet I have not noticed these to be actually spicy (although they are tasty, especially the sausage products which I love!).

I have actually seen people give up on eating pepperoni pizzas here in Madrid. One woman waved her hand in front of her mouth and claimed it was "muy picante." Pepperoni. Is it even spicy? I've never noticed it to be. Another woman had to switch with her husband because she couldn't go through with the pizza. WTF?

I was not looking for wimpy spicy. I wanted full bodied Mexican spicy. And I knew I'd need to make it myself if I wanted anything that would make my mouth sing. So I went about trying to assemble the ingredients that would do the trick.

As usual, this was no mean feat. For one thing, it meant most of the necessary ingredients were going to need to be imported. I began with the basics: tortillas.

Tortillas are shockingly expensive here. You can get "taco kits" which are basically Old El Paso boxes that include the 1970s hard injection molded taco shells and taco powder (just add meat!) for about €7 ($10). But actual soft tortillas? Much more challenging. Finally I found some, several choices actually. And none of them good.

At home, I can buy a package of 20 four tortillas for about $2 (€1.50). Here I could get 8 tortillas for €2.65 ($4). Andt they were large tortillas (not the actual enchilada sized ones. And they fit the pan well (it's actually an awesome clay roasting pan and I absolutely love it!). But shit!

While were were there in the Mexican aisle (or section. a very, very small section) I browsed for what I could use for a sauce for my enchiladas (not being interested in making one from scratch) and was rewarded mightily with canned Herdez salsa casero which wasn't just something to settle for but which is actually a salsa I use at home! Score! But ouch! €2.75 ($4) for each 150ml can which at home would have been about $1.99 for a 500 ml jar.

Next, beans. Beans are not canned here. They are jarred. This is strange. I prefer my beans in a can. I don't know why. I guess I don't like them looking at me or something. Plus not all the beans are in the same place in the grocery store. So several trips down several aisles finally revealed red pinto beans. Two jars at €1.95 ($3) each.

Lastly, the part I had most been dreading: the cheese. Spain is famous for its cheese and well it should be. I've never had such tasty goat cheese, sheep's milk cheese or hard cured cheeses. What it does not have is cheddar. What to do? Well, you improvise. I found some packages of mixed gouda and cheddar which would melt well and I also used some semi cured cheese we had at home which was perfect since it was so much like a queso fresco. The shredded cheese and the cream cheese (which is amazing and has made me now crave bagels) was about €6 ($8.40)

Added to this were the very cheapest ingredients: 1 lime and 2 avocados purchased at the very last minute today and not quite ripe enough to make into guacamole. Astonishingly: €.90 ($1.25).

These were the most expensive enchiladas ever made. But I swear to you they were also the very most delicious! Thank God yesterday's meal (chicken in grapefruit cream sauce with saffron, mashed potatoes and salad) was a fraction of the cost!

Monday, October 25, 2010

here are things you cannot buy in the grocery stores in spain

I am finding that it is a little difficult to cook things I am used to cooking while here because there are certain things one cannot buy here that I am used to using and/or cooking with regularly. These are:

  • bread crumbs
  • cheddar cheese
  • salsa
  • cilantro
  • fresh mozzarella
  • salad dressing
  • cake mix
  • marshmallows (although you can get lots of marshmallow creations, none for your cocoa)


Today the Kid has asked for chicken cutlets (the chicken is the easy part) but with no bread crumbs I have had to improvise by crushing crackers into crumbs. This has been strangely exhausting. Especially with no food processor/blender to do it with, just my bare hands and a wine bottle for a rolling pin (picadillo later in the week hence the wine).

I've had a craving for enchiladas and have had to improvise with the cheese by using a combo of a semi-cured cheese not unlike a queso fresco and a gouda mix. but blocks of cheddar? no way. so I guess we're loading up at home and when we fly through Heathrow after we get the visas. Weird.